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Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many

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When the tarts were assembled, Mum would set to with whichever fruit was to bake within or spoon upon it – apricots or greengages, plums, prunes or apples or, a great favourite then and now, a pear and almond tart studded with shards of crystallised stem ginger. Get ready a 20cm wide x 3cm deep tart tin with a removable bottom. On a lightly floured surface roll out the pastry thinly, wide enough to line the tart tin with an overhang. Place the lined tin in the fridge for half an hour. A few rules, well, musings really, on the business of choosing, preparing and cooking beetroot. There are so many varieties of beetroot in gorgeous pinks, purples and a gold, a particular variety I love called Flaming Badger. The cook can indulge in all manner of variations with different varieties and colours. I like the small new season’s tender beetroots both steamed and baked in foil, or, if there is time to soak, in a diable. Steaming beetroot results in a delicately cooked vegetable, while roasting beetroot in foil or a diable results in a rich intensity. Ensuring the beetroots are of a similar size and shape and regardless of which method of cooking chosen, beetroots take roughly the same time to cook. Larger beetroots, later in the season, are best boiled until tender. To make the rough puff pastry, sift the flour on to a wide surface or into a large bowl. Add the cold butter and salt, then, using your fingertips, work the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse crumbs. Slowly add the water, about 50ml at a time, working deftly until all the water has been added. The dough will not be even but shape it into a rough ball, cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. The Cooking World is a team of professionals passionate about the world of food from diverse areas.

Jeremy Lee’s book to snail racing and ES DINING SPECIAL: From Jeremy Lee’s book to snail racing and

Heat a griddle or frying pan over a high heat. Lay the spring onions on the hot pan to blister, turning after 3-4 minutes to blister the other side. Cooking is one of those books that makes us love our work. From time to time, there is always a book that surprises us, which is precisely what happened with this book. Tumble the salad leaves onto a handsome dish, lay on the beetroot, then cut the eggs in half and place them among the beetroot. Spoon the mustard cream wildly over the salad. Strew with the chives and parsley and grate the horseradish vigorously over the whole salad. Scatter over a few drops of olive oil and serve. This article contains content that is written like an advertisement. Please help improve it by removing promotional content and inappropriate external links, and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view. ( October 2023) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message)

Podcast

In 2012, after eighteen years at the Blueprint Café, Jeremy was offered a new head chef role at the iconic Quo Vadis hotel in Soho. It had just been bought by Sam and Eddie Hart, the restaurateurs behind Barrafina. ‘Eddie and Sam wanted to turn Quo Vadis into a celebration of British produce, and when they approached me to become head chef I realised that you only get one chance to work in a building so grand and iconic,’ says Jeremy. ‘I couldn’t say no. Jeremy Lee. 1991, wow! Way ahead of his time. We were warned but few people seem to notice, even fewer seem to care. Listen now and tell me how much you think has come to pass in the last 30 years. If only every Australian had seen this I don’t believe we would be where we are today.

Cooking by Jeremy Lee | Waterstones

This abiding quest to discover the finest and most delicious food has stayed with Jeremy. He still hunts in outdoor markets, food shops and uncovers little known growers and producers for ingredients that give his cooking such character and distinction. His dedicated pursuit of fresh local foods, in particular for vegetables, fruit and herbs is legendary and in his book he includes details of his favourite suppliers, even inspiring readers with space or a garden to grow some of his chosen plants. There is one curious result to these leaps and bounds of progress: the potential to move so far ahead that one loses sight of what went before. For sure, some of these books are of their time and of interest to only a few. But it is worth, now and again, just sitting at a table, in a rare quiet moment, looking once more at a book, even without photographs, which might have inspired the mother of a cook to tap-tap-tap at a recipe and set to in the kitchen. Jeremy Lee’s favourite five Toast the bread and chop the cooked spring onions finely. Butter the toast and spread with the chopped spring onions. The huge rise in interest in food in recent years has books appearing with such speed that keeping up with the new is in itself a great occupation. Photography changed the production of books dramatically. Now a book illustrated with a couple of ink drawings and the occasional frontispiece may well seem challenging beside a lavishly photographed volume. It is worth pausing to consider whether reading a recipe alongside a glorious colour photograph depicting the dish might diminish the imagination slightly? Subsequently possibly the writing is diminished too. Given Scottish chef Jeremy Lee's culinary career - Simon Hopkinson and the recently departed Alistair Little both appear on his CV - and his obvious mastery of prose it’s a wonder why it has taken him so long to pen his first book. Yet, with all good things, it is worth the wait.

We talk some more about his book, dipping pistachio biscuits into coffee marbled with milk. It is published this autumn, with 180 recipes which have been written over many years, then re-tested for domestic cooks “because recipes don’t halve or quarter politely”, and with written-through titbits by Jeremy about, say, parsley or impromptu puddings or peas, in his inimitable turn of phrase.

Jeremy Lee - BBC A Good Read: Cornelia Parker and Jeremy Lee - BBC

The recipes in Cooking are arranged by favorite ingredients and occasions and include an introduction emphasizing the importance of the quality and provenance of ingredients. From plum compote with ricotta and hazelnuts to perfect anchovy dressing, this stunning collection of recipes is a love song to simple dishes crafted with the finest ingredients. It seems almost redundant to point it out, so obvious is it, but I’ll say it anyway: Cooking by Jeremy Lee is the cookbook of the year. If you know anyone at all who loves spending time in the kitchen, buy them this book.

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Choose the right parents’ was the reply from our family doctor when I asked her for the secret of good health. Jeremy Lee’s impressive and enjoyable debut book COOKING: SIMPLY AND WELL, FOR ONE OR MANY persuades me that this renowned and talented chef at Quo Vadis in London’s Soho also chose the right parents for his career in the kitchen. I have often thought about a copper mould for making this lovely dish, as pleasing to look at as it is to eat. A wider, shallower cake shaped and cooked in a cast-iron skillet or frying pan is as delicious as those cooked in hatted moulds. The company required for almond tart, mostly inspired by my dad, it must be said, is a jug of custard, warm or chilled, Jersey cream, whipped cream and ice cream. Insert a small knife into the cake for doneness; there should be no resistance. Remove the cake from the oven, press down lightly with a frying pan one last time, then let sit for 5 minutes. For the frangipane: Grind the almonds whole in a food processor to a fine crumb. In a separate bowl, beat the butter and sugar together. Beat the eggs, pour slowly into the butter and sugar and stir in until all is just mixed. Add the ground almonds. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

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